The DIY Mask Charade

Originally published June 2017, Updated April 2025.

When it comes to the facial mask, many of us are comfortable doing these ourselves at home. There are hundreds of DIY recipes for face masks across the internet which makes the process easy.  But just because we can find these DIY face mask ingredients in our refrigerators and cupboards, it doesn't necessarily mean it belongs on our faces. Skin care masks are generally formulated in such a way to address issues without compromising our pH or destroying our protective barrier. The food around our house... not so much.

Ingredients You Definitely Don't Want On Your Face

Please, keep the following in your refrigerators/cupboards: lemon, baking soda, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, and toothpaste.

Lemon

Lemon is the culprit that upsets dermatologists the most. Many amateur beauty bloggers tout the benefits of lemon as a "natural" means of skin lightening to correct scars. However, lemon is too acidic to be placed on our skin. With a pH of around 2-3, lemon juice disrupts the skin's acid mantle, which naturally maintains a slightly acidic pH of 4.5-5.5 The moment you add lemon into your DIY mask mix is the moment you start stripping away your acid mantle.

According to dermatologists, "Using lemon juice on your skin can cause significant dryness, redness and irritation." Furthermore, the furocoumarins in lemon juice can interact with sunlight and cause blistering rashes and hyperpigmentation in some people (Parade). Recent research also confirms that lemon juice can make your skin photosensitive, leading to increased UV sensitivity that can cause skin burning, redness and irritation when exposed to sunlight.

Drinking lemon water? A perfectly fine way to detoxify the skin. Putting lemon juice on your face (or under your arms, or anywhere else on your body)? Pump your brakes. And stay away from limes, too (for the same reasons).

Baking Soda

Baking soda is the opposite. With a pH of 8-9, it's too alkaline for our skin and can actually lead to more breakouts. In DIY recipes, baking soda gets your skin so smooth because it is quite literally stripping your skin (or, the protective barrier of your skin) away. Increasing the pH of your skin with baking soda can lead to dryness, irritation, and disruption of the acid mantle your skin needs to protect it from infection and breakouts. Basically, baking soda is the premier DIY ingredient for premature aging.

Recent dermatological literature has reinforced these concerns. The average pH of skin is between 4 and 6, meaning it's slightly acidic. When you introduce something with a higher pH like baking soda, it changes the pH of your skin, which can lead to many skin problems, including peeling, acne, and dermatitis.

Cayenne Pepper

Okay, so you've found a DIY mask recipe that doesn't mention lemon or baking soda. You think you're in the clear. But then you see the recipe calls for something in your spice cabinet. What's that? They want you to put cayenne pepper on your skin? It calls for just a tiny amount so you figure it can't hurt but you'll soon find out they were wrong about that.

Most DIY recipes that call for cayenne pepper tout its ability to "increase blood flow". In reality, cayenne prevents blood clots and even then it must be ingested to take effect. So really you're just giving yourself a mild first-degree burn. Cayenne peppers contain capsaicin—a highly alkaline irritant to all mammals—which causes that immediate burning sensation. You'll find some studies that show the benefits of cayenne (or rather, capsaicin) for treating psoriasis but even that holds some debate in medical circles. Cayenne is great in your diet but on your skin? No thanks.

Cinnamon

Cinnamon is one of those ingredients I sometimes see in mask recipes that makes me think the author slid it in for fragrance only. The cinnamon we have at home generally is not enough to be used for an effective skin care treatment. In order for it to be effective, you would need an extremely high concentration of cinnamon (think cinnamon extract) and a professional. While the spice smells delightful to some, it is absolutely irritating on the skin and can result in dermatitis.

Toothpaste

Toothpaste is for your teeth. It's in the name. And it actually isn't as effective at zapping zits as you may think. Modern toothpaste formulas no longer contain triclosan, a bacteria-killing chemical that was once thought to help with acne. You are much better off dabbing sulfur or benzoyl peroxide on them instead.

Last Resort Ingredients to Use (In Moderation)

If you were stranded on a remote island and only had access to the following ingredients, you could find a use in the following ways.

Sugar

This is totally okay to use in a DIY scrub on your lips, hands, and feet. While our lips seem delicate and soft (or, at least, we want them to be) they actually are quite resilient. And a nice sugar scrub on calloused hands and feet can't hurt.

Egg whites

These are actually a lot safer to put on your face than a lot of these other ingredients BUT they have to be fresh eggs. Egg whites are rich in proteins and contain high amounts of the protein albumin. This protein helps tighten and firm the skin and can also make our pores appear smaller. However, if you don't use fresh eggs, you'd just be giving yourself a salmonella mask instead.

Hydrogen Peroxide

While this can be used in a pinch, you don’t want to make it apart of your routine long-term. Keep this on hand for cuts, not for your face mask (and not for your toner either). Prolonged use of hydrogen peroxide can break down the protective barrier of your skin, cause sensitivities/irritation or all three.

Better Alternatives for DIY Masks

You can never go wrong with using oatmeal and aloe vera for soothing sensitive skin or honey for its hydrating and antibacterial properties. For dry skin, ingredients such as avocado, honey, and milk are recommended.

Clays are also very popular for at home use. French Green and Kaolin clays are quality bases you can use if you plan to DIY at home. You can also incorporate natural minerals and extracts that you won’t necessarily have in your cupboard such as vegetable glycerin.

The Importance of Skin Barrier Function

The acid mantle (your skin’s barrier) is located in the upper stratum corneum of the skin. It is a protective buffer system that contributes to regulating the microbiome, structural stability, and inflammation. Disrupting this delicate pH balance with harsh ingredients can lead to various skin conditions.

You can read more about your skin barrier here.

Professional Options

If you're looking for effective skincare treatments, consider professionally formulated products or book your appointment with us!

So, before you run to the kitchen to test out the latest Pinterest or Instagram face mask recipe, make sure you understand how those ingredients really affect your skin. Or just book an appointment with your favorite esthetician and save yourself the drama.